Livermore Valley’s young winemaker is calling the shots at the ultra premium winery of Big White House and is now concocting cult wines under a new label.

John Marion is a busy guy to say the least. For the past two-thirds of his life, John has been making wine. It’s been part of his family for generations and John isn’t about to let this knowledge pass by. He is also studying chemistry at Cal Poly, San Luis Opisbo, works on web development projects, dabbles in construction and is working on a patent (but don’t ask him about that, he won’t tell you a thing). His knack for engaging customers and story telling during wine tastings in the winery’s tasting room is a gift one should experience first hand.

John is heavily engaged with the production of Big White House wines. He’s now adding to the load his new lineup, John Evan, where he’s got a few wines under his belt. His latest is a Cabernet Sauvignon from Livermore Valley. “When creating a Cabernet like The Alchemist, I want to make a fruit-forward Cab with good tannin structure” says John. “To me, Cabs are often undrinkable, as I detest the bell pepper flavor found in so many otherwise delicious wines. But I have eliminated it from this cab! Alchemists of old strove to turn lead into gold using mineral acids, blisteringly hot temperatures, and occult rituals. I used somewhat different tools than the alchemists such as careful fruit selection, selected yeast, barrels with higher toast levels, and frequent racking. The old alchemists never succeeded in turning lead into gold but I have turned what could be little better than lead into a wine more valuable, and definitely more drinkable, than gold.”

I caught up with John for lunch in downtown Livermore Valley. We split a bottle of Frank Family Chardonnay and spoke openly for a couple hours. John is one of the most personable guys around. See for yourself:

JM: What’s this? I don’t think I’ve had this Chardonnay… Wow, great nose! Oh, this is my kind of Chardonnay.

VS: What’s your take on the no-Chardonnay movement?
JM: I like Chardonnay. I hate it when people say they don’t drink Chardonnay. It can be made in such wide styles that saying such is an unfair statement. I like a full-bodied Chard with some creamy aspects. If I wanted a lightweight, fruity white, I’d order a Sauvignon Blanc.

VS: Can we expect a Chardonnay from John Evan?
JM: Maybe. We make a Chardonnay under the Big White House name already but if I come across fruit that would be up to John Evan standards, I would release it.

VS: How do your standards differ between Big White House and John Evan?
JM: John Evan wines are ones that I feel are the best wines possible. I must be able to say to myself “this is the best wine I’ve tasted for this varietal”. It’s not so much about standards so much as how I want to express myself through these wines. John Evan wines are very low production and I make them in a style in which I would drink. I’m not as concerned with making a pleasing wine for the public so much as I’m making a wine I’ll enjoy for years to come. I just happen to sell some to the public too. The Big White House wines have a more pleasing aspect for general public consideration. While we put our spin on each wine, we’re not doing anything crazy that the general public would find offensive.

VS: Being a young winemaker has to have perks. The ladies must love it!
JM: Actually, I wouldn’t know. I certainly don’t use it to it’s full potential. I’m actually rather shy. When women find out I make wine, it certainly helps keep the conversation going but after that is what I need to work on. I enjoy talking about the nuances of winemaking but most people don’t care about that level of detail.

VS: How does the Livermore Region stack up against Napa?
JM: Napa does a much better job at marketing. People, even here in Livermore, always think of going to Napa when going wine tasting. They don’t realize they can do it their backyard and save themselves the hour and half drive. I think overall, Livermore wineries make wines for the everyday consumer to enjoy today for any occasion. Napa makes wines to receive high scores from Wine Spectator — they’re in it for the score. We in Livermore are in it because we love to make wine. Most of the wineries in Livermore were started as hobbies and have flourished. They have more character and personality — and our wines are great too!

VS: So what are the wines you drinking these days?
JM: I don’t drink that often but when I do, it’s usually my own stuff. That’s just it. I make wine I enjoy and when other people enjoy it too, even better. Business and profits aside, I make wine that I like to drink. It’s definitely nice being able to make wine you enjoy because I can’t afford the stuff on those shelves!

VS: Screw cap or cork?
JM: I would choose screw cap every time if I could. The proof is there and it’s the obvious choice for sealing wine. The simple reason we don’t use it yet is cost. The machine to make that little groove around the bottle to hold the cap down is thousands of dollars; just for a small groove! We’re not ready to make that financial leap just yet.

VS: What can we expect from John Evan in the next 2-3 years?
JM: I don’t know. I guess whatever grapes I get my hands on and what they turn into. I like to dabble and see what happens to the grapes over the process so as long as the grapes keep coming in, I’ll continue to make wines. I think I’ll be overseeing more and more of the day-to-day of both wine labels and taking on more responsibilities throughout the winery. I don’t see us growing any bigger than we are today but if sales continue to do well, who knows. I’ll definitely be working more and more at the winery and less on side jobs.

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John Evan wines can be tasted at Big White House Winery which is open Saturday and Sunday from Noon-4:30pm. Visit them online at www.bigwhitehouse.com.